Hollywood, CA: The Cloister Press, 1931. First Edition. Octavo. Item #025047
Limited. 3 preliminary leaves, 26 pages, photographic illustrations. This rare item is in as new condition of which only 500 copies were printed and has been sought after by the most serious collector of surfing books. It is considered the first important book on surfing (see The Encyclopedia of Surfing, p. 158). Ron Drummond was one of the three great California surfers in the late 1920's and 30's (although he was still surfing in his early 80's). From his experimenting with a canoe at age 14 in the Hermosa surf (which a powerful surf broke in two), he became a well known surfer and an expert on the five different breaks at Dana's Killer Point [before developers ended its attraction to serious surfers]. Surfer Magazine which was founded at Dana Point has over the decades featured article on Ron Drummond and his role in history. He introduced people to terms such as "glide waves" and "sand busters". He writes: "One feels sorry for those who have not learned to enjoy surf swimming..."To spend a day in the sand developing a ‘beautiful tan’ is pleasant; but the real pleasure of a trip to the beach is derived from playing in the breakers." Bound in stiff paper wraps.